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Bringing new thinking to jewellery
TOPIC: Shopping
March 01, 2011
john-hardy1
Luxury and eco-consciousness are two concepts that do not usually go hand in hand. Going green usually entails making small sacrifices, be it using less water, switching off lights, limiting the use of the car or even choosing not to fly. To be environmentally responsible usually means denying ourselves some of the smaller pleasures in life.

Not so in the case of John Hardy, the luxury brand of handmade jewellery and home accessories.

The brand is characterised by pieces that are exceptional in their simplicity, which made it a perfect fit for Island Companies as it reflects the company’s ethos of offering selections from the simple to the spectacular. The John Hardy Boutique, which opened in January 2011, is the latest in a series of new concept stores and boutiques added to the Island Companies line-up, which now includes Pandora and Philip Stein in The Island Plaza, as well as dedicated new watch stores Watch.Me and Island Time. The boutiques and concept stores reflect more of the brand they represent, which demonstrates Island Companies commitment to creating exciting customer experiences, not merely selling products.

Eco jewellery

John Hardy was one of the first businesses to adopt the concept of sustainable luxury: a means of reconciling consumers’ values and efforts to be more environmentally responsible with their wish to continue to enjoy some of the finer things in life.

The starting point was a Sustainable Advertising programme in 2006 which calculated the carbon emissions generated by their print advertising and, in order to offset any negative impact,  planted a corresponding number of bamboo seedlings. The pilot project was established on the largely deforested and impoverished island of Nusa Penida, off the coast of Bali. Taking the project to the next level, they now offset their electricity and international travel costs as well, and have so far planted over 30 hectares of bamboo.

When consumers became aware of the programme and wanted to make a contribution, the Bamboo collection was launched: a design based on the long, grassy plant, with its distinctive knots at regular intervals. For each piece purchased, a corresponding number of seedlings is planted. Every piece in the collection is inscribed with the number of seedlings planted for it. On the inside of a simple earring, for example, a message reads “This planted 4 bamboos.”

Bamboo was chosen not only because it is native to Indonesia, but also because it is one of the fastest growing plants in the world and in addition to oxygenating the air and providing a habitat for wildlife, it is used in construction, for making furniture, house wares and even fabrics, and thus also creates employment opportunities. In short, is the embodiment of sustainability.

With the workshop nestled in the Balinese highlands, respect for the environment permeates every aspect of the business and the company ensures that for whatever it takes from Nature, it gives back in equal measure.

The company’s commitment to reducing any negative impact on their natural surroundings runs deep, and the workshop and design centre are all constructed from local bamboo and other natural materials. An organic farm is arranged around the buildings, produce from which feeds the 500-strong staff. More recently, the new offices in Hong Kong have been built using only natural, non toxic materials. With continued dedication to this cause, their ultimate goal of becoming carbon-negative should not be inconceivable.

The Origins

As a young student of art and design, John Hardy first travelled to the idyllic ‘emerald isle’ of Bali in 1975. While he was there he became fascinated by the tradition of jewellery making, spending time studying with master craftsmen, some of whom were descendants of artisans to the kings of Bali, many generations back.
His visions was to draw on the ancient tradition of jewellery making in Bali, taking inspiration from the natural surroundings, and transform it into something that would appeal to an international clientele.

John was a dreamer, overflowing with ideas, and although his designs acquired something of a cult following with backpackers who picked up pieces of his work here and there, his jewellery making remained small scale for many years. The business was not officially founded until 1989, by which time John had met his future wife Cynthia, and the ideal partnership was born: he was given the freedom to let his creative impulses run wild, while she took care of the business and logistics.

Ten years later, he brought in top European designer Guy Bereida to come up with creations that would introduce some classical European techniques into the traditional Asian art. Although he has since sold the business to Bereida and former president Damien Denoncourt, John Hardy Jewellery has grown into a multi-million dollar global business with collections sold in the finest department stores and boutiques around the world. In spite of the rapid growth and huge success of the business, it has not wavered from its original vision forge a partnership between designer and craftsman, rooted in Balinese culture and tradition.

The Collections

The company philosophy of respect for people and environment is evident in their designs as well as corporate practices. The collections have long been inspired by the natural surroundings and cultural influences: the Bamboo Collection recreates the ubiquitous grass, twisting it into bracelets and rings; the Bedeg Collection is based on woven bamboo walls typical of local architecture, while the Naga collection is inspired by the traditional myth of dragons, the pieces having intricate, individual scales and clasps bearing the heads of the fabled beasts. A more recent collection, the Dot Deco collection that uses a traditional method of flattening and smoothing small metal balls into circles, is inspired by the style of the 1920s, echoing the rhythmic patterns and polished surfaces typical of the art deco period.

Every piece of John Hardy jewellery and accessories are hand crafted by skilled artisans at the hilltop workshop in Bali. Four traditional Balinese jewellery making techniques are used in the collections: the woven chain (it can take several hours to make just one inch) the woven mesh, granulation and cut work. Collections include necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings, pendants and cufflinks, as well as a children’s collections and home accessories.

The majority of the jewellery is made from sterling silver, although some pieces also feature 18ct gold, precious and semi-precious stones. Although much of the work could be done by machines, at John Hardy they feel that the fact it is all hand crafted is one of the things that makes each piece absolutely unique.
The hallmark of their collections, that truly make the pieces one of a kind however, is the back grills: each piece bears its pattern or motif on the front, usually a fairly abstract design, but flip it over and on the inner surface you will find a completely separate design, in cut work, usually much more figurative, as if telling a story. As this is not visible on the outside, it is almost like a secret shared between the craftsman and the collector.

John Hardy jewellery is bold and distinctive, sometimes chunky, but at the same time always incredibly intricate and detailed.

John Hardy Boutique Grand Opening

Thursday 10 March is the latest community event for Island Companies. This is the date set for the grand opening of the John Hardy Boutique in downtown George Town.

Although Island Companies has been carrying John Hardy jewellery in their stores for several years, it was only in January 2011 that they opened the John Hardy boutique, located in the Flagship Building, on Harbour Drive, George Town. Not only is this the first John Hardy boutique in the Caribbean, it’s the first in the western hemisphere – quite a coup for a small island. In addition to carrying all of the jewellery collections, the John Hardy boutique also stocks a line of home accessories including sterling silver photo frames, bowls made from polished coconut, stone trays and other unique decorative items.

In preparation for the launch, and in keeping with the green practices that inform all of the work of the luxury jewellery company, a veritable forest of bamboo, along with orchids and exotic local plants will be brought in to adorn the store front and interior, lending it a lush, exotic air of the Far East while sending out the environmental message loud and clear. Adding a local dimension to the jeweller’s green practices, and in keeping with Island Companies’ tradition of giving back to the community, the event will support the Save our Seas charity by donating a portion of sales from the event.

Music, drinks, hors d’oeuvres and, of course, shopping will be available from 5.30pm until late, and one lucky winner will receive a custom engraved John Hardy piece of jewellery from the raffle.
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