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The Science of rum
TOPIC: Features
By: India Lloyd | india@cfp.ky
2011 May 09
science of rum

Joy Spence dreamed of being a scientist from the early age of 13.   

Never did she imagine, however, that her love of chemistry would lead her down an unusual career path – the science of rum. 

As the master blender at Appleton Estate, the oldest rum company in Jamaica, Joy spends her days immersed in the process of creating rum. She oversees every batch of rum that leaves the estate, and is the brains behind many of Appleton Estate’s most popular blends. It is a job that demands creativity, dedication and, of course, chemistry, and Joy has all three in spades.  

“I absolutely never saw myself as a master blender, but I love the job,” says Joy, who joined Appleton Estate in 1981 as chief chemist after teaching chemistry at both university and high school. “The chief chemist works very closely with the master blender, and I became fascinated by the blending process. I learnt the skills of blending and the creativity behind it.” 

In 1997, following the retirement of her mentor, Owen Tulloch, Joy was promoted to master blender. She was the first female in the world to have ever held this position.  

“I couldn’t believe it when I found out I was the first female in spirit blending,” Joy says. “I felt proud of my achievement, especially as a Jamaican woman, because we’re such a small island. I’m really proud of this.” 

Joy’s journey to master blender began at the University of the West Indies, where she graduated with a Bachelor of Science, First-Class Honours in 1972. Four years later, Joy decided to pursue a Master of Science in Analytical Chemistry at the University of Loughborough, in England. When it came to creating rum, however, Joy’s training was on the job, a process that took 16 years. From the moment she started her tutelage, Joy knew she had discovered her passion.  

“You really don’t have to have formal training to be a master blender,” explains Joy. “You need to know about the myriad types of rum and how they interact, you have to know about the blending process. Rums can be very complex. In our Appleton Estate Reserve, there are 20 different blends of rum, so it takes a long time to discover how they all interact.  

“I think I hit the right note when I started the job,” Joy continues. “I thought, this is how I want to use my creativity and my [knowledge of] chemistry.”  

In addition to blazing a path for women around the world, Joy loves being a part of the tradition of Appleton Estate. Situated in Jamaica’s breathtaking Nassau Valley, Appleton Estate has been handcrafting rums since 1749, and is synonymous with the country’s culture.  

“The Appleton Estate V/X and Appleton Estate 21-Year-Old blends were created by the former master blender [Owen Tulloch],” says Joy, whose favourite cocktail is Appleton Estate V/X and Ting. “But I created the rest of the products; the Appleton Estate Reserve, Appleton Estate Master’s Blender Legacy Rum, Appleton Estate Exclusive [available only at Appleton Estate in Jamaica] and the Appleton Estate 30-Year-Old. These are my babies.  

“I’m proud to be part of the history of Appleton Estate. Rum is part of our culture in the Caribbean. We have a saying in Jamaica about rum, ‘from the cradle to the grave’.” 

Since Joy became the first female master blender, more women have begun to join the spirit industry. Yet, she would like to see more females chose this career path. Joy believes women have heightened sensory abilities that set them apart in the male-dominated world of master blending. 

Joy’s creativity and love of chemistry propelled her to the top of Jamaica’s rum industry. Yet, how does she maintain her passion for her profession on a day to day basis? 

“I love meeting all our customers and passing on my knowledge,” Joy says of her dedication to her job. “I believe in achieving whatever is required of me. Excellence is my hallmark.” 

We’ll toast to that.    

Joy’s creativity and love of chemistry propelled her to the top of Jamaica’s rum industry 

A Slice of Paradise 

For centuries, forgers have attempted to copy the works of the great masters. Today, the same holds true for Tortuga’s Rum Cake. Founded in 1984, Tortuga Rum Company began with a blend of rums from Jamaica and Barbados. The rum was a hit with visitors to the islands, as well as with locals. Three years later, Tortuga Rum Company added the now world-famous rum cake to their line of products.

The generations’ old cake recipe uses a generous amount of the premium five year old Tortuga Gold rum. In 1990, Tortuga Rum opened a 1700 square-foot bakery in Cayman and again expanded in 1997 to open operations in Miami to handle worldwide distribution of their products. Since the very first appearance of Tortuga Rum Cake, thousands of people have tried, unsuccessfully, to replicate it. Devotees have come close, posting their attempts as ‘Almost Tortuga Rum Cake’. With many flavours to choose from, the original Tortuga Rum Cake is still the most popular.
 

Tortuga Dark Rum received prestigious awards two consecutive years at the Caribbean Rum Tasting Contest in Barbados. Tortuga Coconut Rum took an award in the same contest in 1997. Tortuga Light Rum won a silver medal, placing second in 1998.   

RUM RECIPE

 

Blackbeard's Rum was first produced in 1986. Starting with special filtered water, the rum is aged using oak before being bottled and capped by hand. Blackbeard's Rum is also the essential ingredient in Blackbeard’s RumCakes. There are seven different rum varieties to choose from: Dark, Gold, Spiced, White, Coconut, Banana and 151. 

  

Dreaming Caribbean Gold Rum  

3/4  oz Blackbeard's Gold Rum

1/12 oz Bols Blue Curacao

1 1/2 oz Bols Melon

3/4 oz Coconut Cream

3/4 oz Pineapple Juice

Fill a shaker with ice, add melon, gold rum, and pineapple juice. Shake until well chilled and strain into old fashioned llass filled with ice. Rinse shaker, fill.

 

Sandy Glass Crack Banana Rum 

1 oz Blackbeard's Banana Rum

1 oz Bols Peach Schnapps

6 oz Pineapple Juice

2 oz Orange Juice

1 Tbsp Coconut Cream

1 Banana

 

Blend with ice in a blender until smooth.

Serve in a hurricane glass and garnish with orange slice.

 

Bahia Cooler Dark Rum 

 

3/4 oz Blackbeard's Dark Rum

1/2 oz Blackbeard's Spiced Rum

1 oz Coconut Cream

2 1/2 oz Pineapple Juice

 

Shake all ingredients and strain into a collins glass filled with crushed ice.

Garnish with a pineapple wedge.

 
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